[Italy: Milan] 1* Tokuyoshi - Contaminated Italian Cuisine
Rating: ❤❤❤❤1/2 (4.5/5)
When you make a reservation here, you can choose between sitting at a counter or at a table. While I had chosen the counter initially because I thought I would get to watch the chef cook, the kitchen wasn't really open in configuration so I ended up sitting at a table instead which was more comfortable. The chef said that he plans to renovate in the near future so that he can have an open kitchen.
Having spent 10 years in Modena, we were bound to see some influences from there so we were served bread and brown butter made with ingredients from Modena.
The restaurant provides several different tasting menus and while most restaurant requires that you choose the same menu at one table, it wasn't the case here so J and I each got a different menu to try - the classic "Italy Meets Japan" and the new "Color Contamination". We then started off our meal with a selection of amuse bouche including Sicilan Cannolo filled with creamy cod, "Grandma Lucia's Tart" with aubergine, tomato and Parmesan cheese, Liquid Pizza alla Marinara, Scampi Roots and Vegetable Tears. The vegetable tears had an interesting back story - the chef wanted to be more sustainable and made this broth using the skin of vegetables which are usually thrown away.
As we started our courses, every dish was paired with a liquid element served on the side to signify harmony and unity between the two different cultures.
Anna 2017 #tokuyoshi - Organic Mixed Vegetables with Soy Maionese & Flower
Red - Crab "a la Catalane"
Scarpetta - Turbot with Saffron, Shrimps, Herbs and Tomato Sauces. This colorful dish made me realize how much the chef likes to play with sauces and when I went to Osteria Francescana a few days later, I think I found out where he may have gotten that from.
Black & White - Gyotaku Mackerel. I loved this unique plating which was inspired by the traditional Japanese method of printing fish used by fishermen to record their catches. The mackerel was stuffed with scallops and herb mousse before adding finishing touches with fennel ashes and squid ink.
The pasta courses came next and both of them were a real treat with a sound foundation in pasta but with creative flavors.
White - Spaghetti Tribute to Noto with almond milk, clams and pistachio
Head or Tail - Veal Tongue & Monk Fish Tail. The plating here was simply gorgeous and I was told that the plates used in this restaurant are all specially designed. The contrasting textures and flavors made for an interesting dish but I did find the sauce for the veal tongue to be a bit salty for me - a commonality for the rest of the meat dishes here.
Yellow - Mellowbone & Saffron Risotto
Tsukune - Duck Meat Rolled in Signature Furikake
Purple - Venison with Purple Potatoes and White Truffles. Flavors-wise I wasn't sure that this worked for me but I was definitely in love with this hue of purple.
Suckling Pig in the Forest - Cinta Senese "Urbevertus" breed
Green - Pigeon with Chanterelle and Porcini Mushrooms, Taiwanese Pepper and Herbs
Almond Granita and Zibabbo Jelly as our palate cleanser
Concrete & Earth which signifies how ripe fruit falls to the ground
Pink - Mountain Rosa & Fossil
We were stuffed at this point so we had to take our Petit Fours home and they still tasted great the next morning!
Thank you Chef Tokuyoshi for the amazing meal and hospitality!
Via S. Calocero, 3, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Tel: +39 02 8425 4626http://www.ristorantetokuyoshi.com/en/
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