[Hong Kong] Aulis - Chef's Table by Simon Rogan
Rating: ❤❤❤❤1/4 (4.25/5)
Only a month into the year and we already have one of the most exciting openings in Hong Kong with Aulis by British Chef Simon Rogan of 2* L'Enclume in UK! The concept is a chef’s table and development kitchen where diners can experience an ever-changing experimental menu around a 12-seater counter. Besides Aulis, the chef will also be bringing another one of his restaurants Roganic which will focus on farm-to-table ingredients from farms in the New Territories. The tasting menu is currently priced at HK$1,480 per person with an optional wine pairing for HK$680 and a non-alcoholic drinks pairing for $380.
We started the meal with a series of small bites: Pumpkin Tartet with pear and bay leaf jelly, pumpkin mousse and toasted pumpkin seeds
Roasted Chicken Skin with cod roe emulsion and preserved carrots
Mushroom Cracker with mushroom and yeast puree, cream cheese and pickled shimeji mushrooms
Maitake Sabayon with grated cured egg yolk, spelt and burnt chive oil
Chicken and Young Squid Fritter with squid ink crumbs, mustard emulsion and viola flowers
One of my favorites was this Sea Urchin Custard with pickled vinegar jelly, sugar kelp cooked in its own stock and specially reserved caviar from Petrossian in Paris!
A refreshing poached Hairy Crab with licorice, pickled onions and a broth of keltus flavored with fennel, grapes and herbs.
Soda Bread with miso butter
Grilled Salad smoked over cherrywood embers with shaved truffle and westcombe cheese sauce - a Hong Kong farm to table dish with vegetables from a farm in Yuen Long!
Five Flavor Codfish with a sauce infused with dried mint, orange, lime, liquorice and vanilla, and garnished with black garlic emulsion and roasted red cabbage - it was an intriguing dish with a lot going on; while I liked the roasted red cabbage on top, the sauce on it was a bit too sweet which clashed a bit with the rest of the flavors.
The Dry Aged Rhug Estate Welsh Beef (aged for 50 days) was grilled right in front of us and garnished with a roasted onion topped with a garlic honey puree and thyme leaves, parsnip puree and a sauce made from the beef bones finished with beef fat and sherry vinegar. On the side was a ragout made from ox cheeks topped with a potato mousse.
Yellow Beetroot Sorbet with buttermilk and mint
Ice Cream made from stout beer, a molasses reduction and burnt milk crisps
This may be the prettiest Apple Tart ever!
UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay
Tel: +852 2512 6500https://www.roganic.com.hk/aulis
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