[Hong Kong] Revisit to 2* Ecriture
Rating: ❤❤❤❤1/4 (4.25/5)
When the 2019 Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau was revealed, one of the biggest surprise was Ecriture receiving 2 Michelin Stars right away after opening only for 6 months! While I had been there for lunch, I was curious about the food at dinner so I was glad to receive an invite to try new items on the menu. My biggest gripe last time was about the reservation policies but based solely on the food this time, I came away impressed with the bold creativity and the detailed preparations of the dishes.
Similar to lunch, we started our dinner with a series of canapes:
- Pumpkin Oreo with pumpkin tuille, pumpkin cream and puree
- Fish Chips with white fish from Japan, dehydrated then oven baked until crispy, topping with tarragon and vinegar powder
- Steam Buns with dehydrated seafood, topping with spring onion, ginger, shiso flower and pickled daikon
The Amaebi with bonito jelly and pickled onions was a favorite from last time.
Schrencki Caviar Cured in Rubia Gallega Beef served with Bone Marrow Soufflé and finished with clam sauce and parsley oil - what a creative dish and the bone marrow soufflé was just heavenly!
Finally I got to try the signature Hokkaido Scallop Millefeuille layered with black truffle and seaweed, deep fried with Beignet sauce and paired with celeriac purée and scallop skirt foam sauce! While I love the perfectly fried layer and the umami flavors from the seaweed, I was hoping to get more of the inherent taste of the scallop which got lost among the many other ingredients.
The best dish of the night goes to the Akamutsu wrapped with seaweed and verbena, steamed in pot with heated stones and poured over sake for 3 minutes, and served with fish milk (only made with simmered akamutsu and a touch of lemon juice)! The texture of the fish was so soft and juicy while the flavors were amazingly pure and delicious - I would go back just for this dish.
Kuro Awabi poached in sake, seaweed and daikon, served with aubergine puree, diced grapefruit, Spanish air dried beef and abalone liver puree, and aubergine soup
From the new black Truffle menu, we tried the Japanese Wagyu Millefeuille with black truffle compote, strawberry/tomato and wasabi chutney, and finished with beef jus. The flavors were a little bit too heavy for me here - especially the layer of black truffle compote in between the pieces of wagyu beef.
The desserts came back strong with this Strawberry palate cleanser with sake lees puree, ice cream, and sake jelly.
Not only was the Chestnut dessert a joy to look at, the flavors were well-balanced with its ganache of chestnut, and three citrus filling (mikan, dekopon and hyuganatsu) with chocolate rings.
Finally we finished the meal with a fresh melon from Shizuoka, kouign-amann with sour cream, and the signature chocolate tart with cognac chocolate ganache!
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